What Is Altitude Sickness?
Altitude sickness — or acute mountain sickness (AMS) — is the body's response to reduced oxygen availability at high elevations. At sea level, the air contains approximately 21% oxygen regardless of altitude. The problem is barometric pressure: at 3,600 metres, the atmospheric pressure is roughly 60% of sea level, meaning each breath delivers significantly fewer oxygen molecules to the lungs. The body can adapt — slowly — by increasing breathing rate, producing more red blood cells (a process that takes weeks), and shifting blood chemistry. But when the ascent outpaces the body's adaptive capacity, the physiological mismatch produces altitude illness.
Altitude illness exists on a spectrum of increasing severity. AMS (mild) is uncomfortable and slows trekkers down for a day or two. HACE (High-Altitude Cerebral Edema — fluid on the brain) and HAPE (High-Altitude Pulmonary Edema — fluid in the lungs) are life-threatening medical emergencies that kill otherwise healthy trekkers every year in Nepal. The progression from mild symptoms to fatal illness can happen in as little as 6–12 hours — which is why every trekker above 3,000 metres must know the warning signs and be willing to descend early.
| Condition | What Happens | Onset | Severity |
|---|---|---|---|
| AMS (Mild) | Headache, nausea, fatigue, poor sleep, loss of appetite | 6–24 hrs after arrival at altitude | Common |
| AMS (Moderate-Severe) | Worsening headache unrelieved by medication, vomiting, dizziness, marked fatigue | 12–48 hrs — may worsen rapidly | Requires rest/descent |
| HACE | Fluid accumulation in the brain — confusion, ataxia (stumbling, cannot walk in a straight line), altered consciousness, coma | 6–12 hrs from severe AMS | Fatal without descent |
| HAPE | Fluid in the lungs — breathlessness at rest, cough (dry then productive), pink frothy sputum, chest tightness | 2–4 days at altitude, sometimes overnight | Fatal without descent |
Who Gets Altitude Sickness?
Altitude sickness has no respect for age, gender, or fitness level. Fit young men in their 20s are among the most common AMS patients — because they ascend too fast, overconfident in their physical condition. The following factors increase risk:
- Rapid ascent — flying directly to Lukla (2,860m) from Kathmandu (1,400m) in 30 minutes is the single biggest risk factor on the Everest Base Camp trek. There is no gradual road transit to allow adaptation
- Previous history of altitude sickness — if you have had AMS before, you are significantly more likely to develop it again. This does not mean you cannot trek at altitude, but you must be more cautious
- Exertion on arrival — arriving at a high-altitude teahouse and immediately hiking to a viewpoint or summit push is counterproductive. The first 24–48 hours at altitude should be minimal-effort: rest, hydrate, and let the body adjust
- Dehydration and alcohol — altitude increases fluid loss through respiration (dry mountain air) and urination. Alcohol suppresses breathing during sleep, reducing oxygen uptake. Avoid alcohol for the first 3–4 days above 3,000m
- Sleeping altitude increase >300m per night — the "climb high, sleep low" rule exists because the body does its most significant adaptation during sleep, when oxygen saturation naturally drops. Raising sleeping altitude too quickly prevents this adaptation
Prevention Strategies That Work
The Ascent Guidelines
The Wilderness Medical Society (WMS) and the International Society of Mountain Medicine (ISMM) publish evidence-based guidelines for altitude ascent that all Nepal trekkers should follow. These are not suggestions — they are built from decades of altitude illness data:
- Above 3,000m, do not increase sleeping altitude by more than 500m per day — the standard "500m rule." Some sources use 300m for conservative safety. For most trekkers, 400–500m is a manageable target
- Take an acclimatisation day every 3–4 days or every 1,000m gained — a full day at the same altitude (or slightly lower) with gentle walks to higher points during the day, returning to sleep at the lower altitude. Namche Bazaar (3,440m) and Dingboche (4,410m) are the standard acclimatisation stops on the EBC trek
- The "climb high, sleep low" principle — hike to a higher elevation during the day (e.g., the Everest View Hotel at 3,880m from Namche Bazaar), then return to sleep at the lower elevation (3,440m). This exposes the body to higher altitude without committing to sleeping there
- Avoid direct flight to Lukla followed by rapid ascent — consider spending a night at Phakding (2,610m) before pushing to Namche Bazaar (3,440m). This small adjustment gives the body an extra 24 hours of adaptation
Hydration & Nutrition
Dehydration exacerbates altitude symptoms because it thickens the blood, increasing cardiac load at a time when the body is already stressed. The standard recommendation: 3–4 litres of fluid per day above 3,000m. Dal bhat (the Nepali lentil and rice meal) is genuinely excellent trekking food — high in carbohydrates, protein, and easily digestible. Carbohydrates require less oxygen to metabolise than fats, making them the preferred energy source at altitude. Most teahouses serve dal bhat with unlimited refills for 500–800 NPR (~$4–$6), making it both the most nutritious and most economical option on the trail.
Diamox (Acetazolamide) — Medication Guide
Acetazolamide (brand name Diamox) is the only medication proven to prevent and treat AMS. It works by inhibiting the enzyme carbonic anhydrase, which creates a metabolic acidosis that stimulates the respiratory centre to increase breathing rate and depth — effectively tricking the body into adapting faster. It reduces AMS incidence by approximately 50% when taken prophylactically. It is not a substitute for proper acclimatisation, nor does it provide immunity from HACE or HAPE.
Dosage Protocol
| Purpose | Dosage | Duration | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|
| AMS Prevention (prophylaxis) | 125 mg twice daily | Start 24 hrs before ascent, continue 2 days at max altitude | Some sources use 250 mg daily. 125 mg twice daily is as effective with fewer side effects. Available in Kathmandu for ~200 NPR ($1.50) for 10 tablets |
| AMS Treatment | 250 mg twice daily | Until symptoms resolve | Used when AMS symptoms are present but not severe enough to warrant descent. Continue rest and hydration |
| Children (prophylaxis) | 2.5 mg/kg twice daily | Same as adult protocol | Consult a paediatrician before altitude travel with children. The minimum age recommendation varies (typically 8+ years for high-altitude treks) |
Side Effects
Diamox is generally well-tolerated, but it has side effects. The most universal: tingling in the fingers, toes, and lips (paraesthesia), which affects nearly all users and is harmless. It can also cause altered taste perception (carbonated drinks taste flat). Less common: nausea, drowsiness, and frequent urination. Diamox is a sulphonamide and should not be taken by anyone with a sulphonamide allergy (though the cross-reactivity risk is debated — consult a doctor). It also reduces the effectiveness of lithium and can interact with certain blood pressure medications.
Alternative Medications
Dexamethasone (Decadron) — a corticosteroid sometimes used to treat HACE. It reduces brain swelling but does not treat the underlying altitude exposure and should only be used under medical guidance. Nifedipine — used to prevent and treat HAPE in susceptible individuals. Not for routine prophylaxis; reserved for people with a known history of HAPE. Ibuprofen — some studies suggest it modestly reduces the incidence of AMS headache but does not prevent HACE or HAPE. It is useful for symptom management but not a substitute for Diamox.
Treatment & Emergency Response
The treatment protocol for altitude sickness depends entirely on severity. The following decision framework is adapted from the Himalayan Rescue Association's guidelines used in their Everest Base Camp and Manang clinics.
Mild AMS (Headache + Nausea)
Stop ascending. Rest at the same altitude. Hydrate. Take paracetamol or ibuprofen for headache. Do not ascend until symptoms resolve completely. If no improvement within 24 hours, descend 300–500 metres. Most mild AMS resolves within 24–48 hours with rest at the same altitude. About 20% of trekkers experience mild AMS on the EBC trek; the vast majority continue after a rest day.
Moderate-Severe AMS (Vomiting, Severe Headache, Dizziness)
Descend immediately. Do not wait for morning. A descent of 500–1,000 metres is the standard response. Oxygen (2–4 L/min by mask) provides temporary relief but is not a substitute for descent. Diamox 250 mg twice daily can be started. The Gamow bag (portable hyperbaric chamber) can simulate a descent of 1,500–2,500 metres by increasing the pressure inside the bag — this buys critical time for rescue but must be followed by actual descent.
HACE / HAPE (Confusion, Stumbling, Breathing at Rest, Pink Sputum)
Immediate descent. This is an emergency. Do not wait for helicopter rescue to arrive — start descending on foot while calling for evacuation. For HACE: administer Dexamethasone (8 mg first dose, then 4 mg every 6 hours) if available. For HAPE: Nifedipine (30 mg slow-release every 12 hours) if available. Place the patient in a sitting position (not lying flat) for HAPE to reduce pulmonary pressure. Keep the patient warm and calm. Coordinate helicopter evacuation via your trekking company's emergency number or through the nearest teahouse (most have satellite phones and can contact rescue coordinators).
EBC Acclimatisation Schedule
The following schedule represents the safest standard itinerary for the Everest Base Camp trek, incorporating mandatory acclimatisation days at the established points. This schedule adds 1–2 days compared to "express" itineraries (12 vs. 10 days walking) but significantly reduces the risk of altitude illness.
Kathmandu → Lukla → Phakding
Fly to Lukla (2,860m). Walk 2–3 hours to Phakding (2,610m). This gentle first day is actually a loss of 250m — giving your body a soft introduction to the Khumbu. Do not push to Namche on the same day.
Phakding → Namche Bazaar
A tougher day — 830m ascent over 4–5 hours, including the steep climb from the Dudh Koshi river (last hour). Go slowly. Drink 1L during the climb.
Namche Bazaar — Acclimatisation Day
The first mandatory acclimatisation day. Walk to the Everest View Hotel (3,880m) for views of Everest, Lhotse, and Ama Dablam. Return to Namche to sleep. This is the textbook "climb high, sleep low" day. Visit the Himalayan Rescue Association talk at 17:00.
Namche → Tengboche / Deboche
A beautiful day — walk past Everest's first view at every turn. Tengboche Monastery (3,860m) is the spiritual heart of the Khumbu. The Deboche lodge area is slightly lower (3,820m) and sometimes quieter.
Tengboche → Dingboche
The trail descends briefly to the Imja Khola valley, then climbs steadily to Dingboche (4,410m). The landscape becomes alpine — fewer trees, more yak pastures. Go slowly; this is the third day above 3,500m.
Dingboche — Acclimatisation Day
Second mandatory acclimatisation day. Walk up Chhukhung Ri (5,046m) or toward Chhukhung village — the climb to the ridge above Dingboche provides an extraordinary view of Lhotse and Makalu. Return to Dingboche to sleep.
Dingboche → Lobuche
A steady climb across the Khumbu moraine. The trail passes the memorials for climbers who died on Everest — a sobering reminder of what this mountain demands. Lobuche (4,930m) is a basic settlement at the foot of the Khumbu Glacier. Sleep poorly, as everyone does at 4,930m.
Lobuche → Gorak Shep → Everest Base Camp → Gorak Shep
The big day. Gorak Shep (5,164m) — the highest permanent settlement — drop your bags. Walk the final 2–3 hours across the Khumbu Glacier moraine to Everest Base Camp (5,364m). Return to Gorak Shep to sleep. This is a long day (8 hours walking) — pace yourself, drink constantly, and watch everyone in your group for symptoms.
Gorak Shep → Kala Patthar → Pheriche
Start at 05:00. Hike 1.5–2 hours to Kala Patthar (5,545m) for the definitive sunrise view of Everest's summit pyramid and the South Col. Then descend all the way to Pheriche (4,371m) — the ~1,200m descent significantly reduces HACE/HAPE risk. Sleep well for the first time in days.
Pheriche → Namche Bazaar
A long descent day — retrace the trail through Tengboche and back to Namche. The knees take a beating on the steep descents but each metre of altitude lost is a metre of safety gained.
Namche → Lukla
Final day. A long descent back to Lukla (2,860m). The final night in the Khumbu. The beer tastes better than any beer has ever tasted. You have just completed one of the world's great treks — and you did it safely.